MOUNT KINABALU CLIMB - CHALLENGE TO THE SUMMIT: PART 2 OF 2.

With 2 nights at Laban Rata, our original plan was to spend the next day there so we can rest up, and summit on the last day. Bension suggested that we summit the next morning, take the rest of the day to rest, then head down on the third day. He said this would take the pressure off having to rush down from the summit, check out and head down to the bottom on the same day. I'll bet he made this suggestion cos he saw how long it took us to get to Laban Rata. He knew we would need the extra time to summit and make it back down. This was an EXCELLENT move.

Everything you read online tells you that you have to depart at 2:30am for the summit. Well, that's IF you want to watch the sunrise on top of the summit. Bension asked us this question, and we decided it wasn't important, as it didn't really matter where we watched the sunrise.  Bension suggested that we leave at 3:30am.  An extra hour of sleep sounded great to me! This decision later proved to be the smartest thing.

At 3:30am we headed out into the darkness. To prepare for the cold, we both wore longjohns under our pants. I wore a long sleeve dry-fit top, a zip-up fleece and a light rain jacket. We also had toques and gloves. We were expecting it to be near freezing outside but it was probably more like 5C and as we are from Canada, it was no big deal. But if you are from a tropical country, it will be a huge shock to your system, so make sure you dress warmly and in layers. As soon as I started to climb, I heated up, so it wasn't long before my rain jacket and gloves came off and I went the rest of the way in 2 layers only. We were also lucky that it wasn't windy or rainy.

Although the summit trail was way shorter in distance(2.5KM) compared to the day before, it was no less challenging. In fact I felt it was more difficult. The first part was a thousand endless stairs. Thank goodness our headlamps only illuminated the next 30 feet or so, because honestly if you could see the never ending steps ahead, you might turn around. In fact, shortly after we started, we met a young woman and her guide who came down. She couldn't go any further. But be patient, conquer the steps, take your time. Another benefit of starting later than the rest of the group, is that you will be climbing alone and don't feel like you have to be rushed by others around you.

The ropes part of the climb was not as daunting as what I have read online. If you are not afraid of heights, have good upper body strength and ok with traversing uneven ground, you won't have any problems. When you are summiting in the dark you can't see the steep terrain, but you will see it on your way down. A must-have here is a pair of gloves with good grip. Don't use regular woollen or knit gloves as they do not have enough grip or protection for your hands. We brought inexpensive work gloves which worked very well. The rope is thick and hard, without gloves your hands will be rubbed raw, and there is a great chance of losing your grip and falling.

The Sayat Sayat rest stop is the last checkpoint where you have to show your permit to the guy sitting in the booth lit by candlelight. This guy was probably cursing us as he had to wait extra long for us since we started late! It is also the last washroom stop and is the only squat toilet on the entire trail. (I did see that Western-style toilets are being built so they are coming.) Anyway use this toilet before moving on b/c after this, the entire trail to the summit is exposed and there isn't even a tiniest bush you can hide behind to do your business!

We caught the beautiful sunrise just past the checkpoint. It was gorgeous just the same. The trail now is completely in the open and entirely on the granite rock face and since it is now daylight, we could see everything around us, which was so beautiful. There are lots of interesting features on the rock face to look at, and watching the mist and clouds moving amongst the peaks provided us moments of calm and peace as we took our breaks. This would not be possible with the 2:30am crowd as they would have traversed this part in the dark, all racing to make it on time for the sunrise.

 

 At KM8 with the Mountain guide.

After passing KM8, we met the early climbers on their way down. Everyone was exuberant and raved about the summit, and cheered us onward.

 

At any point after KM8, you can pretty well say you have made it. Some people ended up stopping here. Views are spectacular and you can see the many surrounding peaks of Mt. Kinabalu. The tallest one - and your final goal - is Low's Peak at 4,095M.

 

I have to honestly say, THIS is the final test of endurance. Just like the cay before, the last part is so tough. You can see the Peak right in front of you, but it's still so far away, and it is straight uphill, giant pile of rocks; in some parts I had to scramble over them on my hands. This is when you have the biggest fight with yourself. Your brain tells you that you can't go on anymore, it's too difficult, you're gasping for air and you're out of energy. Just tune that voice out. You've come way too far to give up now. Look ahead at your target, take one step at a time. Take breaks. Don't worry about anybody else and how fast they're going, just move at your own pace, and envision yourself on that summit. And you'll get there.

 

So here is the beauty of starting later than everyone else and having that extra day...Have a look online at all the climbers' photos, generally there are other people in the background, and it's pitch black. Low's Peak is a very small area. One side of it is completely fenced off as it is a sharp drop into the deep gully.

So everyone needs to jostle for their turn to take that photo by the sign, then move off to make room for the next folks and start the trek down because they need to make it back down to Laban Rata to check out. When we reached the summit, we were the ONLY ones up there.

We also lucked out that it was a sunny day so we could see 360 around us, and it was warm. The summit was ours alone and we stayed there for over 30 minutes, taking everything in and contemplating our success. Should have brought some champagne! Again, it would be impossible if we had been with the early group or just stayed 1 night. We will treasure these moments forever.

 Time to return to Laban Rata.

 Breathtaking view on the way down.

Final descend.

Back at Laban Rata, lunch is included for us but since the kitchen doesn't normally serve lunch as all climbers have already departed and the next group does not arrive until mid afternoon, we have to place our order and they make it for us.

The rest of our day was at leisure. My husband took a nap and I sat in the dining hall with my coffee and read in the beautiful sunshine. It was even warm enough to sit out on the deck and enjoy the panorama below. I watched new climbers arrive in the afternoon, all trudging wearily. Everyone cheers and claps for the new arrivals as they come through the doorway.

On the last morning we started our descent at 8:30am. After an afternoon of rest and a good night sleep, we were once again fresh and ready. (Good call Bension!) The descent was made easier by having our trekking poles, although you still have to be extra careful.

 In fact most people hurt themselves on the way down, so please still take your time and watch your step. We were passed by many young ones leaping and bounding down, and passed those who were struggling in small strides.

On this trail we saw climbers of various fitness level and ability. There are star athletes that run by, people like us taking our time, and everything in between. Everyone is courteous and encouraging to their fellow climbers. Oh if you are interested in seeing pitcher plants, ask your guide to point them out to you.

They are often right beside the trail, but they blend in really well with the rest of the flora so you don't see them if you're not looking. We even saw tiny newborns smaller than the size of your baby finger nail. Depending on the time of year you climb, there are also a variety of orchids and flowers that may be in bloom.

We arrived back at Park Headquarters after 2pm. We gave Bension a well-deserved gratuity for his patience, bid him farewell and claimed our climb certificates. Buffet lunch is included in Balsam restaurant so we fill up before our trip back to KK. The next three days were spent at a resort to recuperate. My husband said his legs were slightly sore for a day. For me, my calves and hip joints were super sore for about 3. Going down a flight of stairs on the very next day was a screaming experience! My quads, knees and toes, which I had been so worried about, were absolutely fine. No doubt they were saved by the trekking poles.

Climbing Mt Kinabalu was on my to-do list. As a Sabahan who left Malaysia when I was 12, I felt it was a rite of passage that I must return to accomplish. Reaching that summit was the biggest accomplishment in my life, and what a proud feeling to say I have conquered SE Asia's highest peak, which happens to be in my home country.

In closing I would like to summarize our recommendations and hopefully it will help you with your own climb experience. Enjoy some of our photos below.

ABSOLUTE MUST HAVES:
- Trekking poles. 2 provide better support than 1.
- Proper hiking boots with high ankle support and good grip.
- Inexpensive work gloves for the rope section.
- Rain ponchos & a garbage bag to line the inside of your pack.
- Headlamp to light your way on summit morning.
- Energy bars for snacking during the climb. Bring at least 5 or 6 per person.
- Water purifying tablets if you have a weak stomach. Water at the rest stops is untreated.

 Mt.Kinabalu in the distance as we made our way to the city.

THINGS TO CONSIDER:
- Your fitness level. You must be able to climb steps, uneven and steep terrain continuously,  and climb over boulders and rocks. You need strong legs to carry your weight, and cardiovascular strength for endurance. On the first day you will be climbing straight up for 6km.
- Your available time. If you have the time to spend 2 nights at Laban Rata, the experience is that much more enjoyable knowing you don't need to rush.
- Your budget. Staying in the private room for 2 nights is a lot more expensive than the shared domitory. But what you get in return is privacy, hot water(I'm sure a cold shower at 3,372M is VERY cold), relaxed pace - and perhaps a higher chance of success at summiting. There are two private "Buttercup" rooms that accommodate 2 and one that accommodates 6. Private rooms need to be booked at least 6 to 8 months in advance.

- Altitude sickness. It affects everyone differently, and is one of the major reason why many cannot climb successfully. Read up on it online, talk to your doctor and don't take a chance.