With 2 nights at Laban Rata, our original plan was to spend the next day
there so we can rest up, and summit on the last day. Bension suggested
that we summit the next morning, take the rest of the day to rest, then
head down on the third day. He said this would take the pressure off
having to rush down from the summit, check out and head down to the
bottom on the same day. I'll bet he made this suggestion cos he saw how
long it took us to get to Laban Rata. He knew we would need the extra
time to summit and make it back down. This was an EXCELLENT move.
Everything
you read online tells you that you have to depart at 2:30am for the
summit. Well, that's IF you want to watch the sunrise on top of the
summit. Bension asked us this question, and we decided it wasn't
important, as it didn't really matter where we watched the sunrise.
Bension suggested that we leave at 3:30am. An extra hour of sleep
sounded great to me! This decision later proved to be the smartest
thing.
At 3:30am we headed out into the darkness. To prepare for
the cold, we both wore longjohns under our pants. I wore a long sleeve
dry-fit top, a zip-up fleece and a light rain jacket. We also had toques
and gloves. We were expecting it to be near freezing outside but it was
probably more like 5C and as we are from Canada, it was no big deal.
But if you are from a tropical country, it will be a huge shock to your
system, so make sure you dress warmly and in layers. As soon as I
started to climb, I heated up, so it wasn't long before my rain jacket
and gloves came off and I went the rest of the way in 2 layers only. We
were also lucky that it wasn't windy or rainy.
Although the
summit trail was way shorter in distance(2.5KM) compared to the day
before, it was no less challenging. In fact I felt it was more
difficult. The first part was a thousand endless stairs. Thank goodness
our headlamps only illuminated the next 30 feet or so, because honestly
if you could see the never ending steps ahead, you might turn around. In
fact, shortly after we started, we met a young woman and her guide who
came down. She couldn't go any further. But be patient, conquer the
steps, take your time. Another benefit of starting later than the rest
of the group, is that you will be climbing alone and don't feel like you
have to be rushed by others around you.
The ropes part of the
climb was not as daunting as what I have read online. If you are not
afraid of heights, have good upper body strength and ok with traversing
uneven ground, you won't have any problems. When you are summiting in
the dark you can't see the steep terrain, but you will see it on your
way down. A must-have here is a pair of gloves with good grip. Don't use
regular woollen or knit gloves as they do not have enough grip or
protection for your hands. We brought inexpensive work gloves which
worked very well. The rope is thick and hard, without gloves your hands
will be rubbed raw, and there is a great chance of losing your grip and
falling.
The Sayat Sayat rest stop is the last checkpoint where
you have to show your permit to the guy sitting in the booth lit by
candlelight. This guy was probably cursing us as he had to wait extra
long for us since we started late! It is also the last washroom stop and
is the only squat toilet on the entire trail. (I did see that
Western-style toilets are being built so they are coming.) Anyway use
this toilet before moving on b/c after this, the entire trail to the
summit is exposed and there isn't even a tiniest bush you can hide
behind to do your business!
We caught the beautiful sunrise just
past the checkpoint. It was gorgeous just the same. The trail now is
completely in the open and entirely on the granite rock face and since
it is now daylight, we could see everything around us, which was so
beautiful. There are lots of interesting features on the rock face to
look at, and watching the mist and clouds moving amongst the peaks
provided us moments of calm and peace as we took our breaks. This would
not be possible with the 2:30am crowd as they would have traversed this
part in the dark, all racing to make it on time for the sunrise.
At KM8 with the Mountain guide.
After
passing KM8, we met the early climbers on their way down. Everyone was
exuberant and raved about the summit, and cheered us onward.
At any
point after KM8, you can pretty well say you have made it. Some people
ended up stopping here. Views are spectacular and you can see the many
surrounding peaks of Mt. Kinabalu. The tallest one - and your final goal
- is Low's Peak at 4,095M.
I have to honestly say, THIS is the final
test of endurance. Just like the cay before, the last part is so tough.
You can see the Peak right in front of you, but it's still so far away,
and it is straight uphill, giant pile of rocks; in some parts I had to
scramble over them on my hands. This is when you have the biggest fight
with yourself. Your brain tells you that you can't go on anymore, it's
too difficult, you're gasping for air and you're out of energy. Just
tune that voice out. You've come way too far to give up now. Look ahead
at your target, take one step at a time. Take breaks. Don't worry about
anybody else and how fast they're going, just move at your own pace, and
envision yourself on that summit. And you'll get there.
So here is the beauty of starting later than everyone else and having that extra
day...Have a look online at all the climbers' photos, generally there
are other people in the background, and it's pitch black. Low's Peak is a
very small area. One side of it is completely fenced off as it is a
sharp drop into the deep gully.
So everyone needs to jostle for their
turn to take that photo by the sign, then move off to make room for the
next folks and start the trek down because they need to make it back
down to Laban Rata to check out. When we reached the summit, we were the
ONLY ones up there.
We also lucked out that it was a sunny day so we
could see 360 around us, and it was warm. The summit was ours alone and
we stayed there for over 30 minutes, taking everything in and
contemplating our success. Should have brought some champagne! Again, it
would be impossible if we had been with the early group or just stayed 1
night. We will treasure these moments forever.
Time to return to Laban Rata.
Breathtaking view on the way down.
Final descend.
Back at Laban
Rata, lunch is included for us but since the kitchen doesn't normally
serve lunch as all climbers have already departed and the next group
does not arrive until mid afternoon, we have to place our order and they
make it for us.
The rest of our day was at leisure. My husband took a
nap and I sat in the dining hall with my coffee and read in the
beautiful sunshine. It was even warm enough to sit out on the deck and
enjoy the panorama below. I watched new climbers arrive in the
afternoon, all trudging wearily. Everyone cheers and claps for the new
arrivals as they come through the doorway.
On the last morning
we started our descent at 8:30am. After an afternoon of rest and a good
night sleep, we were once again fresh and ready. (Good call Bension!)
The descent was made easier by having our trekking poles, although you
still have to be extra careful.
In fact most people hurt themselves on
the way down, so please still take your time and watch your step. We
were passed by many young ones leaping and bounding down, and passed
those who were struggling in small strides.
On this trail we saw
climbers of various fitness level and ability. There are star athletes
that run by, people like us taking our time, and everything in between.
Everyone is courteous and encouraging to their fellow climbers. Oh if
you are interested in seeing pitcher plants, ask your guide to point
them out to you.
They are often right beside the trail, but they blend
in really well with the rest of the flora so you don't see them if
you're not looking. We even saw tiny newborns smaller than the size of
your baby finger nail. Depending on the time of year you climb, there
are also a variety of orchids and flowers that may be in bloom.
We
arrived back at Park Headquarters after 2pm. We gave Bension a
well-deserved gratuity for his patience, bid him farewell and claimed
our climb certificates. Buffet lunch is included in Balsam restaurant so
we fill up before our trip back to KK. The next three days were spent
at a resort to recuperate. My husband said his legs were slightly sore
for a day. For me, my calves and hip joints were super sore for about 3.
Going down a flight of stairs on the very next day was a screaming
experience! My quads, knees and toes, which I had been so worried about,
were absolutely fine. No doubt they were saved by the trekking poles.
Climbing
Mt Kinabalu was on my to-do list. As a Sabahan who left Malaysia when I
was 12, I felt it was a rite of passage that I must return to
accomplish. Reaching that summit was the biggest accomplishment in my
life, and what a proud feeling to say I have conquered SE Asia's highest
peak, which happens to be in my home country.
In closing I would
like to summarize our recommendations and hopefully it will help you
with your own climb experience. Enjoy some of our photos below.
ABSOLUTE MUST HAVES:
- Trekking poles. 2 provide better support than 1.
- Proper hiking boots with high ankle support and good grip.
- Inexpensive work gloves for the rope section.
- Rain ponchos & a garbage bag to line the inside of your pack.
- Headlamp to light your way on summit morning.
- Energy bars for snacking during the climb. Bring at least 5 or 6 per person.
- Water purifying tablets if you have a weak stomach. Water at the rest stops is untreated.
Mt.Kinabalu in the distance as we made our way to the city.
THINGS TO CONSIDER:
-
Your fitness level. You must be able to climb steps, uneven and steep
terrain continuously, and climb over boulders and rocks. You need strong
legs to carry your weight, and cardiovascular strength for endurance.
On the first day you will be climbing straight up for 6km.
- Your
available time. If you have the time to spend 2 nights at Laban Rata,
the experience is that much more enjoyable knowing you don't need to
rush.
- Your budget. Staying in the private room for 2 nights is a
lot more expensive than the shared domitory. But what you get in return
is privacy, hot water(I'm sure a cold shower at 3,372M is VERY cold),
relaxed pace - and perhaps a higher chance of success at summiting.
There are two private "Buttercup" rooms that accommodate 2 and one that
accommodates 6. Private rooms need to be booked at least 6 to 8 months
in advance.
- Altitude sickness. It affects everyone differently, and
is one of the major reason why many cannot climb successfully. Read up
on it online, talk to your doctor and don't take a chance.
